'All is Well'

Our adventures of late have taken us from serene Lodi Gardens to a hectic street market called Janpath. Not to let things get too carefree, the next morning we visited St. Stephen's Hospital, the oldest privately-owned hospital in the city.

We met at length with an orthopedic surgeon who operates on children and young adults suffering from polio. He presented to us a powerful presentation showing case after case of polio patients who were reduced to crawling or being carried around until they had corrective surgery and were then able to walk. The surgeries are very expensive for these patients, many of whom come from poor and remote parts of India. Fortunately, money given by Rotary as well as private donors allow the surgeries to be done for free. The need for funds is still great.

In the hospital, we were ushered along dark hallways that smelled of medicine until we reached the polio ward. There, patients were recovering from surgery and were obviously in a lot of pain. The doctor helping them is a positive person who takes his role of making them as independent as possible very seriously. He got philosophical with us explaining how these patients have great strengths and many talents that far surpass some of us who can walk. I left feeling drained, but inspired to help this place.


Later that day, we visited Old Delhi and the famous Chandni Chowk market. The chaotic scene was sensory overload: thick, humid air was heavy on the skin; smells of car exhaust, urine and tobacco smoke surrounded us; sugary syrup dripped down our fingers as we ate a hot deep-fried snack. The market was followed by a sound and light show at the Red Fort. We ended the evening at a magical restaurant full of mirrors, silver shimmers and red lights.

Following this late night we got up early to head off to Jaipur, a vacation destination about 250 kilometers outside of Delhi. We first visited the City Palace, where we saw this snake charmer. We did more shopping followed by a nighttime camel ride along a busy street before heading back to our hotel.


On the way out of town the next day we went to the Amber Fort, where painted elephants parade up the hillside to a palace. This place looks like something out of a movie. In fact, a fight scene from a movie was being shot while we were there.





Driving back to Delhi we added another dining experience to our list — lunch at a truck stop surrounded by flies. Once in Delhi, we were picked up by our new club, Faridabad Midtown. Faridibad is out in the suburbs of Delhi, but has a population of 2.5 million people. The father of my host family owns 13 liquor stores in town, yet he doesn't drink. One morning he took me to his Sikh temple, which I had been eager to visit since I haven't made it to one of those yet. I was the only guy there not wearing a turban. Before entering I had to remove my shoes, wash my hands and tie a scarf around my head.

After experiencing his daily ritual, I was dropped off with the group and some younger Indians to see something else I wanted to experience — the movie "Three Idiots." Despite being in Hindi (I had a good translator sitting behind me), this is my new favorite movie. "Three Idiots" has some good life lessons: not to pressure your children to be something they're not, learn for knowledge (not just to memorize useless information) and whenever in doubt just follow your heart and tell yourself that "all is well" and it will be.

Bollywood movies can be so over the top with the singing and dancing that it almost goes beyond cheesy and becomes cool. They can make you laugh and cry. Indian movies are also long (so long they have an intermission where attendants bring you popcorn and cappuccinos).

Afterwards we went to a mall and then back home for pizza, whiskey and karaoke. My song selection was "Born to be Wild," which earned me 43 out of 100 possible points (surprisingly, that put me at third from last place). I was told at least part of my performance was videotaped so hopefully it won't end up on YouTube someday.



After that late night we got up early the next day to drive to Agra and visit the world-famous Taj Mahal. Built by an emperor in tribute to his wife — who died giving birth to the couple's 14th child — this building is a symbol of eternal love throughout the world. A highlight was walking on the cold marble in my bare feet.

We then ate lunch at a five-star hotel before taking the long drive back to Faridabad for our farewell dance party. This involved dancing with bright lazers, strobe lights and fog machines combined with more whiskey and "meaning of life" talks.


At our next club, Delhi South, we got to attend a yoga class at the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. We toured the complex and learned about what the ashram offers, ate a cafeteria-style lunch (in which we washed our own dishes afterwards) and sat on a rooftop lawn to discuss yoga, nutrition and overall well being with a doctor.

Other recent stops include visiting India's polio headquarters and the Bahai Temple, which is shaped like a lotus flower and is open to all faiths for silent meditation and prayers. We have now made it to our eighth and final host club — Delhi Uptown — and are still going strong.